We're on a train rushing through Japan's rugged landscape, steaming out of the dark into pasture filled ravines, then plunging back into the darkness of another tunnel. Every time the effects of the last night start to drag us down, Haze looks over at my leather jacket, then at me, he chuckles to himself and drifts happily back to sleep.

In one of the few moments of inspiration of the day Haze had suggested that we take refuge on the train and head straight for Toyama and leave Tokyo , a city of more grand beauty and heat than we alcohol sweating mortals can handle.

After getting off at Toyama we discovered that our hotel was at the next station. So we stood on the platform blinking at two trains as they sped off toward our destination. Realizing that we now had around an hours wait before the next train we looked around for something to eat.

Japanese train station have the coolest Kiosks in the world. Unlike the usual dirt and grime encrusted hovels with displays of crisps and chocolates that haven't been produced for the last 18 years, last centuries newspapers, and baine-maries full of stale, shriveled, luke warm chips and frankfurters floating in urine coloured water; kiosks in the train stations in Japan are sparkleing clean, ordered and serve some of the tastiest noodles you'll ever get. It's such a simple system, you buy a voucher from the vending machine give it to the personat the counter and in minutes you'll receive a real ceramic bowl full of fresh noodles. awesome!!